You might be wondering, why bother researching the best paint for cabinets?
There’s a reason everyone congregates in the kitchen during a party. It’s the heart of your home. Plus, all the snacks are there. But what if the center of your home reflects the taste of the previous owners? Or some impulsive cabinet purchases you made years ago?
If you dread spending even a minute in your kitchen, it’s time to treat yourself to an upgrade. You can get a stylish kitchen without the expense and hassle of a major renovation. Did you know you can paint kitchen cupboards?
By the way, looking for a sprayer for painting your cabinets? Check out my personal favorite HVLP Sprayer here.
It’s true, with just a little planning and the best paint for cabinets, you can transform your kitchen. Make this the year your house feels like a home. Using the best kitchen paint for cupboards, you can change your ho-hum kitchen into the heart of your home.
My Top Kitchen Cabinet Paint Picks
INSL-X Cabinet Coat | Behr Cabinet Enamel | Benjamin Moore Advance |
 Top Pick |  |  |
Durable Finish | Excellent Leveling Durable Finish Ultra Low VOC | Hybrid Paint Low VOC |
The Top Kitchen Cabinet Paints
INSL-X Cabinet Coat
INSL-X Cabinet Coat is my top pick for kitchen cabinet paint because of its blend of performance, ease of use, price, and durability.
Cabinet Coat sprays, brushes, and rolls incredibly easily and lays down wonderfully to give you a smooth, professional-looking finish.
Add in that cabinet coat is a low VOC product that comes in at 44 grams per liter and it resists yellowing over time, and you have the perfect kitchen cabinet paint for DIY painters.
Benjamin Moore Advance
Benjamin Moore Advance is the finish that I often use in my client’s homes. Advance is a hybrid enamel, meaning that it acts like an oil-based finish while being a water-based finish. Basically, you get the best of both worlds, extreme durability and vibrant finish of oil, easy clean up, and low VOC content of water.
Advanced is priced similarly to Cabinet Coat but does take a little longer to dry. If you plan on using Pure White, some people have noticed that pure untinted white can yellow a bit over time, though I have not personally found this to be a problem.
Behr Hybrid Urethane Alkyd Enamel
Many people are surprised when I talk so highly of Behr products, but Behr never seems to disappoint. They produce high-quality products at some of the most affordable prices on the market.
Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel is no exception. I have personally used this product on over ten different projects and consider it to be one of the best performing while still reasonably priced enamels on the market.
Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel is the cheapest kitchen cabinet paint on this list by about $35, so savings can be significant.
Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel
The only reason that Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethan Trim Enamel is coming in last on my list is because of its price. Emerald will cost you $110 per gallon, which is $30-$70 more than every other paint on this list.
After you get past the price of Emerald, you will see that it is one of the absolute best paints for kitchen cabinets. It has an amazing look, perfect sheen, has great flow, and is incredibly durable. This finish will last, and it touches up great (kids and pets can damage anything!).
Additional Kitchen Cabinet Painting Resources
Here are a few other posts I have written on DIY Painting Tips about painting kitchen cabinets as well as a few videos.
How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets Like a Pro
Cabinet Painting Follow-Along Video
Home-Made Grain Filler Video (Blog Post)
All Kitchen Cabinet Resources on DIY Painting Tips
Common Types of Kitchen Cupboard Paint
Painting your kitchen cabinets isn’t quite as easy as grabbing a gallon of eggshell and going to town. It takes a little more prep than painting a room. You’ll have to remove the doors from the cabinets, for starters. And there’s special paint for kitchen cabinets.
It used to be the case that professionals swore by oil-based paint. As you’ll read in the following section, technology’s improved paint formulas. Oil-based paint is no longer the best paint for cabinets, just as it’s no longer suitable for residential applications. Many professionals now use latex paint, citing the improvements to the formula and the as-good-as finish they can get on most surfaces. We actually prefer a third type of paint for cabinets, the hybrid enamel.
There are three common types of kitchen cabinet paint:
Oil-Based Paint
Oil-based paint is the go-big-or-go-home of interior paints. In it, the color pigment is suspended in oil and then thinned with an agent like mineral spirits. It was the preferred type of slow-drying paint to use on wood in homes because of the uniform paint surface. Plus, it’s durable–perfect for things like trim and cabinets that experience a lot of wear. Historically, it’s considered the best paint for cabinets.
You can’t even buy oil-based paint in California anymore, and more states are following suit. Not because California hates lustrous, hardy paint in the home. It’s high in Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), which is dangerous to breathe and harmful to the ozone.
It’s also messy and wasteful. You need mineral spirits on hand to clean up any mistakes and spills. You have to take special precautions when disposing of leftover paint, painting equipment, and used-mineral spirits.
Oil-based paint is a lot of hassle, dangerous, and bad for the environment. Also, you can get a durable, beautiful finish on your kitchen cabinet doors with other kinds of paint.
Latex, Water Enamel Paint
Compared to the history of paint, latex paint is still the new kid on the block. Sherwin-Williams used a synthetic rubber, latex, in the 1940s to create the first water enamel paint. Since then, its safety, environmental friendliness, and ease of use have motivated the ongoing development of latex paint technology.
The Best Latex Water Based Enamel is INSL-X Cabinet Coat.
Because of the improvements in latex paint formulas, it’s almost as durable and polished as the finish you’d get from oil-based paint. Almost, but not entirely. Latex paint dries much faster than oil-paint, making it difficult to get as even and lustrous of a finish. Using a paint sprayer will minimize unevenness. But if you’re using a roller or brush–you’ll notice a difference while painting kitchen cabinets.
So what’s the solution? Oil-based is dangerous and a hassle, latex is natural and safe but compromises quality. Luckily, you can have the best of both worlds.
Hybrid Enamels
Science didn’t stop with just latex. In developing low VOC paints, pursuing an exceptional finish and excellent protection when painting wood kept researchers going. Within the past few years, they came up with the answer–Acrylic Alkyd paint. It gives you oil paint’s beautiful finish, but with the easy clean-up of waterbased paint. An oil molecule surrounded by water molecules carries the pigment. As the water evaporates, it leaves behind the oil–and that lustrous, durable finish we talked about earlier.
Plus, it takes just soap and water to clean up. If you have leftover paint, just let it dry out and throw it right into the garbage–no annoying trips to the hazardous waste disposal sites. And you can pick your method to paint kitchen cabinets. A paint sprayer will give you the easiest, even coat. But with hybrid enamel paint, your wood cabinets will look great if you opt to brush or roll the paint.
The Best Hybrid Enamel Paint
If you agree hybrid enamel paint is the best material for your kitchen cupboard painting project, we’ve rounded up some of the best products available on the market today.
- Benjamin Moore Advance: the most sheens available, including a hybrid enamel primer. It has low VOC, comes in 3,500 colors, and dries furniture-hard.
- Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel: adheres to a variety of surfaces, including masonry, wrought iron, and stucco. It’s resistant to household cleaners after drying with high flow and leveling.
- Sherwin-William ProClassic Interior Waterbased Acrylic Alkyd: available in semi-gloss and satin, it flows and to self-level for a pristine finish on wood trim, cabinets, and doors.
- Valspar Oil-Enriched Enamel: resists scuffing and scratches in busy homes. Its unique formula doesn’t require primer or sanding. It’s perfect for prep-resistant people who still want a beautiful finish on their cabinets.
Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore put out superior products that provide a finish as good as oil but without toxic and illegal VOCs and easy clean-up. In particular, Benjamin Moore provides a primer besides topcoats and the most sheens out of any brand. It’s the best kitchen cabinet paint if you want to make a powerful statement with a high-gloss or matte finish.
Which Sheen Is Best for Kitchen Cabinets?
Do you go deer-in-the-headlights when you’re picking out the right paint sheen for your home? Don’t feel bad; it happens to the best of us. It feels like there’s a correct answer, but it’s also about preference. Sheen refers to how shiny the paint surface is after it dries. When you’re painting kitchen cupboards, the sheen is part of the total package, along with the luster and color.
Which sheen should you pick for the best paint for cabinets? Whatever you like. We recommend saint paint for cabinets because satin looks the best hands down. Semi-gloss tends to be too much sheen and can cause too much glare on your cabinets.
Chalk paint and matte finishes have their place on wood furniture. But for the daily wear and tear wood cabinets must withstand, you need to protect them. Unless you enjoy repainting.
Most hybrid enamel paints come in satin and semi-gloss. Satin falls right between semi-gloss and eggshell finish. Benjamin Moore makes a broader range of products, including high-gloss for that candy-coated finish on your cabinets. And they also make a matte finish for a more durable paint specific for wood cabinets.
Again, pick whatever sheen makes you happiest. Just know that the more matte you go, the more it’ll show dirt and wear. The more high-gloss you go, the more difficulty you’ll have getting a smooth finish on your cabinets.
How Do I Get a Smooth Finish on Kitchen Cabinets?
Patience and prep work are vital to getting a professional-quality smooth finish on your kitchen cabinets, even when you use the best paint for cabinets. All DIY-paint projects involve a lot of prep work, just like the professionals do. The more thorough your prep, the easier the painting will be, and the better the finished product. Check out our ultimate guide to painting kitchen cabinets for all the tips and tricks from start to finish.
One of the easiest ways to get a smooth finish on your kitchen cabinets is to use flood coating with your primer. Always sand in between coats of paint. It helps the new layer of paint bond with the previous layer and the primer to make a more even coat.
What is Flood Coating?
You can use two methods to apply primer to your cabinets:
- Sprayer: slow down the sprayer and use twice the amount of paint you usually would.
- Brush: apply two to four coats of primer with a brush.
Use a fine-grain sanding sponge to even out the primer after you’ve flooded the wood grain. Then you’re ready for the topcoat of paint, which will dry to a perfectly smooth finish thanks to your hard work prepping the cabinet surfaces.
What is the Best Paint for Cabinets?
Use a the best paint for cabinets, hybrid enamel paint, and check out our post on the best kitchen paint colors for this year. Take your time with the prep work, and use care to sand and clean in between coats of paint. DIY painting is an affordable way to transform a room. Taking the time to repaint kitchen cabinets is a brilliant way to spruce up a lackluster kitchen and fall in love with your home’s heart.
The Best Cabinet Paint Re-Cap
Top Choice
INSLX Cabinet Coat
Runner Up
Behr Hybrid Urethane Alkyd Satin Enamel
Runner Up
Benjamin Moore Advance
Ready To Learn More?
Check out our Painting Kitchen Cabinets hub page for everything you could want to know about cabinet painting including costs, how-tos, reviews, and more.
Hello Ryan, I am responding in the comments because in reading your bio you mention to leave a question. I know this does not have to do with the article exactly. My question is what is your advice on best cleaning prepping highly detailed (grooves, decorative beads etc) cabinets? Cabinets are painted currently with what seems to be a oil based finish and we are currently planning on using sherwin emerald cabinet urethane paint with a sprayer. I know that sand paper will get the flat spots but with the deep grooves is a liquid deglosser a good product to help ensure paint in the grooves and detail fasts correctly?
@Ryanc, Soap is bad news before painting.
Actually, when cabinets have loads of grease from cooking, Dawn Dish Soap has been my best friend (used on hundreds of sets of cabinets personally with no callbacks). It works amazingly. If you used it and didn’t bother to rinse it off thoroughly, sure, bad idea. Use it right, just like any other tool, and you’ll have great results.
@Craig L,
Just had my cabinets painted with SW Emerald Satin and the texture of the paint is as if sand is in the paint. I am so disappointed with the finish and now I have to live with this.
Sorry to hear this JoAnn. I have dealt with issues like this in paint before, my understanding is that it is a manufacturing error. If you notice something like this, stop immediately and return your paint wherever you got it from.
Sherwin is pretty good with warranty work. If you go to your local SW and tell them what happened, at the very least you should get all the free products needed to fix it.
If you hired out a professional, then that is unacceptable. They should have noticed immediately (at the very least after the first coat), stopped, and solved the issue. They should return to sand and refinish the cabinets.
Best of luck!
Hi Craig,
Thanks for the question. Typically I wash cabinets down with a wet rag and then scuff with a sanding sponge. This works 99% of the time. Occasionally, I will run into cabinets that are exceptionally greasy, and then I will wash with some dish soap. With highly detailed areas, I take extra time when sanding, that’s really it. I personally don’t use deglossers and think they are usually unnecessary when dealing with kitchens. That being said, a deglosser won’t hurt anything, I just don’t use them. Sorry, I’m sure this doesn’t help much!
I’m trying to decide which brand of paint to use. Im reading a lot about Milesi k2, BM Advanced, Renner….etc. What is your opinion on these
Hi Paulette,
Honestly Milesi and Renner are super niche products, both are really expensive, and neither are popular in the US. BM Advance on the other hand can be found all over the US and is one my personal favorites. You can read my review on it here: Benjamin Moore Advance: Cabinet Paint Review.
Hello! We have very expensive wood cabinets painted white. They are cracking and chipping. I don’t understand why? Was the wrong paint used?
@Mitchie, I am not a painter, and there are many reasons why a paint may crack or chip.
One of those reasons is when the primer or paint used under the clear or top coat are not allowed to dry for a period recommended by the manufacturer. This drying period could range from a few hours to a few weeks depending on the type of paint.
Hi Mitchie,
Sorry to hear that the paint on your cabinets is cracking and chipping. Right now I’d just be guessing at what could have happened. If you can share any more info about your project, I might be able to help more. Do you know what prep work was done, primer used, top coat used, anything else?
Hi Ryan, We are going to be painting primed MDF cabinets soon. They’ll be primed with BIN Shellac primer… then I wondered if you’d recommend Benjamin Moore Advance for the paint? The doors will be modern, slab doors. Very sleek so the finish needs to be super smooth.
Thanks,
Leah
Hi Leah,
Absolutely. Advance should be a great topcoat to go over MDF primed with shellac. The smoothness of the finish will depend more on the method you use for finishing them. I use an HVLP sprayer and thin my Advance by about 20%. I’m able to get a flawlessly smooth finish this way. I’d also recommend spraying them while laying flat on a table, it’s easier. You can read more about painting cabinets here if needed. Good Luck!
What’s the best type of paint and finish for “Formica over Ply-Board” cabinets? Could you recommend a particular brand? Thanks so much!
@Ryanc,
Where is the beat place to buy the Zinsser Smart Prime?
Hi Denise,
My personal favorite primer and top coats right now are Zinsser Smart Prime for the primer, and Benjamin Moore Advance for the top coat. If you click on the links you can read my full reviews on both products. Good Luck with your project.
My cabinet doors are cracking around the seams. I have tried regular caulk but it still cracks after a winter. I have now tried Big Stretch caulking. I used BM Advance to paint cabinets originaly . I contacted Big Stretch and they said to use a elastomeric paint and it will give with the caulk. I will be painting the cabinet doors in garage. I understand that it is an outdoor paint with higher VOC. Will this be a problem or just go with the BM Advance?
Hey Allen,
Without seeing what is going on, this is my best guess, and sorry, but there aren’t any great solutions for wood expansion and contraction. Wood expands and contracts a lot, especially in places like Minnesota where we have humid summers (expansion) and dry winters (contraction). Elastomeric paint is going to have a bit more elasticity, but likely a lot less than your caulk, meaning it will expand and contract differently, and probably still crack. I don’t think the durability of an elastomeric paint is going to be anywhere near Advance, nor do I think it will look that nice either. One idea might be to install a whole-house humidifier onto your furnace and aim to keep the humidity steady throughout the year. I wish I had a better solution for you.
My kitchen cabinets are orange oak, i dont think they washed them in 20 years, what would be the best way to prep them, and what colors of paint are good for people that dont clean up regularly
Hey Suzanne,
I have an entire post all about prepping cabinets for paint that should help you with your first question. Basically, scrub them down with Dawn, rinse, then sand (the post has more detail). You can also check out: how to paint cabinets like a pro where I go into detail on every step. If you want cabinets that won’t show dirt, then darker colors are going to be better.
I bought the Valspar oil-enriched enamel. Can you add floetrol to it? I’m trying to paint cabinets that are stained somewhat dark with a light shine. I did a light sand but it didn’t seem to take to it. Do I need to sand it down to the wood. Or prime it first? Thank You!
@Ryanc,
Than you!
Rick
Hi Rick,
I actually have a gallon of Valspar Cabinet & Furniture (Oil Enriched enamel) on my shelf waiting to use it on a project so I can review it, but I actually haven’t used it yet.
However, like other oil-enriched products (hybrids), I would thin it with water (typically between 10-20%). I personally don’t use Flood Floetrol, I don’t think it does any better job than water.
I don’t recommend sanding down to wood. I like to thoroughly clean the cabinets first (warm water and even some dawn dish soap, then rinse), then sand with medium grit 3M sanding sponges. That should be enough to rough up the surface and allow your primer to adhere properly.
Hope this helps! Good luck!
Wondering if you’ve tried the Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel for Kitchen Cabinets. It’s currently what Sherwin Williams recommends. I previously used the ProClassic Interior Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd
for cabinets in my previous home and it worked well although I didn’t get the finish you talk about here. Based on your great advice I think I can do better this time around.
Hi Marc,
Yes, I’ve used Emerald Urethane from Sherwin Williams. It is a great high quality product that sprays well and looks good. However, If I am comparing it to Benjamin Moore Advance though, I think Advance just has a better finished look. Not sure what it is exactly, but I’ve always thought it looks better than Emerald. Good Luck!
What kind of primer (name) should I use with the Sherman Willams acrylic alkyd paint?
Hi Michelle, I recommend Multi-Purpose Water-Based Acrylic Primer from Sherwin Williams.
My daughter needs to repaint her kitchen cabinets. They are white but have discolored over the years and you can tell. The cabinet doors have a vinyl coating on them. What do you suggest for cleaning, prepping, and what type of paint should she use? Any advice?
Thanks Barbara
HI Barbara,
I approach vinyl cabinets the same way I approach other cabinets. Simply clean them thoroughly (Dawn and warm water), sand them with a medium sanding sponge, prime with Zinsser Smart Prime, then top coat with Benjamin Moore Advance. Good Luck!
This is wonderful advice! I’m a novice so this is invaluable to me. Still not sure whether to chance brushing vs air spray but I can make my decision now based on this great info. I am amused that two of your big pictures show no-no’s of painting cabinets–1) not removing the doors and hinges before painting and 2) using a roller brush which you say you absolutely do not recommend….
Good Eye!
You’ll notice two types of articles on my site. The first are posts where I get technical on the painting and really dig into the how to stuff. I try to use photos from my personal projects for these. The second type are “best” style posts where I make a list of some of my favorite products for recommendations to my readers. For these, I will often grab a stock photo just to help illustrate my posts. It’s not always worth going out and getting a perfect photo for every situation and to be honest, I don’t like worry about photos and stuff while I’m working, I just like to get the job done and go home 🙂
with these new paints do you need to use a finished coat and if so what to use, or does this new paint have this buildt in.
Hi Karen,
I think you’re asking if you need to apply a clear coat over the cabinets after you paint them. No you do not. These enamels are designed to be a top coat and are incredibly durable (potentially more durable than clear coats that would be applied over them). Applying a clear coat over the cabinets actually comes with disadvantages such as making it so future touch ups don’t blend in.
Hi Ryan, I’m getting ready to paint kitchen cabinets white. I’ll be priming with Kilz adhesion due to laminate surfaces. My main concerns are VOCs, yellowing, and durability. I have heard the new alkyds can still yellow, and since the cabinets will be white, that’s not an option. What do you recommend?
Hi Sandra,
My go to set up for low VOC, high performance, great looks, and minimal yellowing is to use Zinsser Smart Prime for the primer and Benjamin Moore Advance for the top coat. I use this on every one of my clients jobs. Hope this helps.
Several questions regarding these waterborne hybrid paints, thank you.
1.) Advance is alkyd only, while others are urethane acrylic (Cabinet Coat, Emerald, Command). Does urethane impart better qualities?
2.) In states where oil/solvent based alkyd is still an option, is this a better choice vs. waterborne regarding highest durability, wear & tear, etc.? It seems the waterbornes still compare themselves to oil base (setting the standard).
3.) Does the quality of Advance supercede it’s long dry/recoat time vs. other products?
Thank you. Sharing your expertise is appreciated and you are providing great information.
Hi Randy,
Advance is actually a water-soluble alkyd. I classify it in the “hybrid” category along with the urethane acrylics. These paints are attempts (successful attempts) at achieving the same durability and lushious look as oil based finishes.
In states where oil/solvents are or aren’t an option, I would still choose any of these new enamels. I am no longer willing to submit my body to the high VOCs of oil based finishes and I’m not interested in contributing to our ongoing environmental problems either. These finishes are a great solution.
I personally believe that the quality of Advance does supercede it’s long dry times vs other products. In my opinion, Advance is the best product on the market for the DIY painter looking to refinish their cabinets. I also believe it is the best finish for most contractors depending on the circumstances.
Hope this helps.
What category is cabinet rescue paint which is now primarily found at Lowes? Quality for kitchen cabinets? Thank you
Hi Lilly,
I have never used Cabinet Rescue, but I will put it on my list of products to check out and review.
I’m looking to have 10 yr old kitchen cabinets painted (they’re builders grade cherry). I have inquired with a few (handy men) that do cabinets & they want to paint them (doors) in my garage. If they take them with them – they charge more. They would put a plastic sheet in the perimeter of garage to protect & from over spray. I live in Virginia, it is extremely hot & humid here. My garage is not air conditioned. I am not a painter or crafty, but I have read on spray paint cans, other articles & just common sense says do not paint (outside) with high humidity levels &/or temps. I am not interested in going this route, not only for the mess/hassle in garage, fumes penetrating the house, but the effects short or long term that the temp/humidity could cause to the paint job. Am I wrong? Thank you. (I feel if I paid the extra $ for them to take them & paint, they would be painted in that persons garage, not a climate controlled shop).
@Ryanc,
Hi Ryan, I am going to repaint my older white kitchen cabinets. They are painted with a water based acrylic polymer. I plan to clean and sand as you recommend and repaint white. My question is do you think that using a primer necessary for this? Thank you!
Randy
If you’re just coating over the old finish, then priming isn’t necessary. I would clean everything, give it a light sanding with an extra fine 3M sponge. Then go ahead with your top coat. Good Luck!
Hi Gg,
You are likely correct, they will probably be painted in that person’s garage. There are amazing painters who do not own shops that likely can deliver an amazing product whether they finish them on your property or not. There are also terrible painters who may very well get paint on everything in your garage (I’ve seen it many times!). IF you hire someone who does the finish work on your property, make sure you trust them.
IF they had a shop, they would likely want to bring the cabinets to their shop rather than finish them in your garage. So, I think your hunch is right, they would have to prep off their own garage. I am not saying they are bad painters though, just that your guess is likely right.
If you want someone to take them to a climate-controlled shop, call around to different companies until you find someone with a shop. Ask for photos of the shop, address, anything. I know that here in Minneapolis there are many companies with amazing facilities, you just need to find them. I actually moved to a property that has an 800 square foot shop on site. I installed an air conditioner, dehumidifier, and a heater and it works amazing. It is easier than finishing on site in most cases.
Hello Ryan,
Thanks for all articles you do, very helpful!.
I’m preparing for a project to paint my kitchen cabinets in white color, as my wife states they look outdated
🙁 . They are now natural coated maple, about 15 years old but still in like new condition (that is why I’m hesitant to paint them).. I’m very handy but not that much experience with painting. From my re-search, I’m down to two paint alternatives: BM Advance Or INSL-X Cabinet Coat.
I’m concerned about the yellowing comments on the Advance but also concerned about the unknown durability of the CC. I do not have small kids anymore nor pets, but I still want something durable and with good/smooth finish. Would like to hear your recommendation on the paint, as well as a good matching primer for that (I have looked at Kilz or the INSL-X STIX?)
I want good results so plan on spending good time with cleaning and overall preparation. I have never used a HVLP spray gun before but I’m willing to try it at least for the paint, and probably roller and brush for the primer..
Thoughts?
Thanks !
@Ryanc,
Thanks Ryan!
That makes a lot of sense to me! I guess I will go with Advance since I can get it in the local store.
I got the Zinsser primer and got started with a few doors only, and like you said, I’m getting too much texture even with a fine roller. I can easily sand it off but also considering the amount of time it takes to paint and sand, I’m definitely ready to start playing with the sprayer and get some practice before I get to the top coat.
Another question, the primer covered very well with the first coat since I sanded the old clear coat quite a bit. Do I still need a second coat?
Thanks again!
Alvaro
Hi Alvaro,
In all honesty, you can’t go wrong with either Advance or INSL-X. Benjamin Moore actually owns both products. I tend to prefer Advance, but instead of the Advance Primer, I like Zinsser Smart Prime or INSL-X Stix.
One recommendation, if you plan on using an HVLP on your top coat, you should absolutely use it on your primer coat as well. This will give you a chance to practice and since primer is easier to sand, it will be more forgiving if you get runs. Also, if your roll your primer, you’ll be putting texture onto the cabinets that doesn’t need to be there. You may be able to sand it out, but if you plan on spraying the top coat, I think that spraying the primer as well only makes sense.
Good Luck!
I will be using a brush to paint cabinets for my granddaughter. She and future husband are diy a house to live in after wedding. My problem, the cabinets are from the 70s and are a wood look plastic. Can not replace now. Can I use the bm advance. I want a smooth finish. They are dark. HELP.
Hi Marilyn,
I run into cabinets like this every now and then. The most important thing to consider is prep. Make sure to thoroughly clean the cabinets, give them a lite sanding, then use a good primer like Zinnser Smart Prime. Let the primer cure for a day or two, then go ahead with BM Advance for your top coat. You should be just fine. Make sure to check out my article on painting your kitchen cabinets as well, I have tons of info in there.
Hi Ryan, I’m planning on painting my stained oak cabinets from the early 70’s. The paint is going to be dark. I’m considering doing this myself, however I’m not sure how much sanding to do and what is the best paint. Can you recommend a paint/primer combo for oak cabinets? I’m willing to pay for the best. Don’t I need to sand the stain off? Spray or brush on? And you don’t recommend rolling? I’m in Minnesota so I guess I have to wait till spring to sand outside….Thanks!
Hi Trista,
I’ve got a super detailed post on painting kitchen cabinets here: https://diypaintingtips.com/how-to-paint-kitchen-cabinets/
I’ve also got a lot of content on filling oak grain, prepping and more.
Quick answers though: Clean the cabinets thoroughly with a wash cloth. Give them a light sand with a medium grit 3M sponge and you’re good to go. No need to sand off the current finish, just rough it up.
I always use and recommend Zinsser Smart Prime. You can read my full review here: https://diypaintingtips.com/zinsser-smart-prime-review/
Hi Ryan- I was wondering if you could give me a suggestion… I am painting a decorative “hutch/cabinet” over the sink and window in the kitchen. It services no purpose and is wood on the sides and drywall front facing. She wants it to be a matte black. I was thinking Onyx by BM but I only need a quart because its a small space and its accents from other cabinet color. I did use the Advance satin on the cabinetry and it came out wonderful. I haven’t been able to located a quart of the Advance in matte and I am in a fairly large city. Any suggestion is much appreciated.
Hi Nicole,
Advance does come in Matte, so my suggestion would be to have your local BM dealer get a quart ordered for you. It might delay the project a couple of days, but if you tell the homeowner that this is the correct product and it’s out of stock locally, they should be understanding. You could always go with Emerald from Sherwin Williams if you need to get it done right away. Hope this helps!
Hi Ryan, I had a professional painter paint my stained oak kitchen cabinets an off white which was ~12 years ago. I “think” it was a Benjamin Moore oil paint (the painter has since passed away so I can’t ask) and it held up well. Then we had a dishwasher flood and the insurance company repainted the cabinets about 6 years ago. We didn’t have much say in product or painter as it was an insurance remediation, but they seemed to hold up well. 2 years ago I wanted a color update so I had them repainted by a different professional painter. I myself washed and dried the cabinets with TSP before the painters came in. They used brushes and rollers. Upon my request, they used BM Advance in Hale Navy on my lower cabinets. The problem is that now, 2 years later, it is chipping everywhere (if I counted, I bet in 35 places or more) and you can see the white paint underneath the chips in the navy paint. If I barely tap the surface with anything (broom, etc), the paint chips, but there are also chips in areas that do not receive much wear and tear. My upper cabinets are painted with the same BM Advance white product but it is over white, so the chips are not as noticeable. Any suggestions? Can I just dab some paint over the chips? Must I sand the areas first, if so how much around the chips? Will the new paint match the old or do the entire lower cabinets need to be repainted? If so, do I need to start over and re-sand and prime? Is it chipping because it has been painted too many times? Ugh.
Hi Julia,
This doesn’t sound like an issue with Advance, but rather with the application. Even though you washed them, if they are chipping easily, my guess is the new painter didn’t sand before their primer/top coats. 99/100 that will be the issue when dealing with chipping like you are describing. You can touch up with a brush, which is a really nice feature of Advance. If you do start over, thoroughly sand the cabinets before applying any paint or primer. Good luck!
Have you tried out Benjamin Moore’s Cabinet Coat yet? Also, other than repainting, do you offer any tips on how to smooth out minor imperfections after painting? Synthetic wool or high grit sandpaper?
Hi Deborah,
Cabinet Coat is wonderful. I highly recommend it. I do go with Advance on all my client projects, but I have used cabinet coat for testing, on clients when they asked for it, and evne in my own home.
A simple tip to buff out minor imperfections is to buff them out with brown construction paper. It works great!
Great information, thank you!