Benjamin Moore Advance came onto the market roughly 6 years ago as an answer to the gap between oil and water-based enamels.
Since that time Advance has become popular both with painting contractors and homeowners for its unique properties.
You can purchase Benjamin Moore Advance Here.
But is Benajmin Moore’s Advance what you should be using on your kitchen cabinets? Let’s dive in and find out.
What Is Benjamin Moore Advance
Traditionally oil-based enamels such as Benjamin Moore’s Satin Impervo have been the best quality paint for kitchen cabinets, windows, trim, doors, and furniture.
Oil-based paints are alkyd based use harsh solvents as a carrier, thus making them high in VOCs and odors.
Oil-based paints do have a beautiful finish, they dry hard and durable, have great adhesion, they flow beautifully (self-level), and are easy to apply. The problem, however, is that they have a high VOC content, high odor, cleanup requires solvents, and dry time is over 24 hours.
By contrast, latex (water-based) enamels were easy to clean up, have low odor, lower VOC content, and dry much faster. This is because their carrier of the pigments in latex paint is water.
However, latex paints/enamels lack the quality finished look of their oil brethren, don’t flow as well, and have lower adhesion. Durability is typically acceptable.
This left a gap in kitchen cabinet paints and Advance was Benjamin Moore’s solution.
Benjamin Moore’s Advance is a low VOC Water Reducible Alkyd. This means that Advance is an alkyd that uses water as a carrier instead of solvents.
In theory, this gives us all the benefits of an oil-based alkyd without any of the negatives. They are basically combining the benefits of oil and water-based enamels into a hybrid enamel.
In theory, Benjamin Moore’s Advance has a great finished look, flow, adhesion, durability and cleans up with water instead of solvent, has low odor and VOC, and even dries quickly.
Our Ratings
| Category | Rating |
| Flow | 4 |
| Durability | 4 |
| VOC Content | 5 |
| Adhesion | 4 |
| Sprayability | 4 |
| Brushing | 3 |
| Dry Time | 4 |
| Cleanup | 5 |
| Price | 4 |
| TOTAL | 37/45 |
Advance Specs
| Specs | |
| Carrier Type: | Waterborne Alkyd |
| Volume Solids: | 39.0% |
| Dry Time Touch: | 4 Hours |
| Dry Time Recoat: | 16 Hours |
| Coverage / Gallon: | 400-500 Sq Ft. |
| VOC Level: | 48 |
First Thoughts Of Benjamin Moore Advance
I’ve been a painting contractor for nearly 20 years.
Back in 2012 I shifted my business and focused heavily on refinishing and painting kitchen cabinets. Since that time I have painted over 100 sets of kitchen cabinets and developed a unique system that gets great results. (read my post on starting a painting business here)
You can read my complete guide to painting kitchen cabinet here
Enameling kitchen cabinets with oil-based paint worked. I was able to get a great looking finish and great results.
However, the homeowners often had to leave their house during the entire process, I had to buy and dispose of solvents for thinning and cleanup, and after years of breathing in high VOC levels, I began worrying about my own health.
This is when I was informed of Advance.
I immediately thought that the concept was too good to be true, so I had to try it out for myself.
Right off the. bat, I love not having to purchase paint thinner for reduction and cleanup.
Next, I love that I don’t need to cover my body like I did when spraying oil. Since oil dries so slow, the droplets of overspray in the air could literally stick to things across the room, so I would always be covered in overspray. I would wear a complete spray suit, mask, earplugs to protect access to my brain, eye coverings (anything that has easy access to my inner workings, I protected).
With the main benefits of safety and cleanup realized, I needed to know if Advance sprays well, brushes well, flows and levels, adheres, has long term durability and does it pass the eye test?
I’ll cover each one of these individually in more detail.
Odor / VOC
Benjamin Moore’s Advance has a lower VOC content that typical alkyd based paints.
This is due to the. fact that its carrier is water and not a solvent.
For comparison, here are Benjamin Moore’s 3 most popular enamels and their respective VOC contents.
- Oil Based Impervo = 375 grams / liter
- Water Based Impervo = 135 grams / liter
- Advance = 47 grams / liter
*NOTE: Low VOC is considered less than 250 grams/liter.
Spraying Benjamin Moore Advance
When I spray kitchen cabinets, I use an HVLP sprayer, which is a High Volume Low Pressure sprayer. My personal favorite is the Wagner Flexio 5000. I love the flexio 5000, it’s cheap yet sprays like a professional sprayer.
HVLP sprayers typically require thinner paint than airless sprayers, so I thin Advance down with 20% water before spraying. For me, 20% is the perfect spot to get the paint just thin enough to produce a fine mist when spraying.
I find that Advance sprays really well with my HLVP. It has a really nice flow and lays flat for me. It atomizes really well with the HVLP and I can honestly say that it sprays about as well as any water or oil-based paint that I have sprayed with an HVLP sprayer.
You can read all about HVLP paint sprayers in my post The Best Paint Sprayer For Every Painting Project.
Brushing & Rolling Benjamin Moore Advance
I recently enameled all of the woodwork on the main level in a house using only Advance. I used both their primer and satin topcoat. This included kitchen cabinets, windows, doors, trim, and built-ins.
I sprayed the kitchen cabinets and doors to get a nice glassy look, but I used a brush on all of the base trim.
I find that Advance brushes quite nice with a fine bristle brush. It does tend to form runs quite easily though when brushing. I needed to go back and check my work every 10 minutes or so to make sure that no runs had formed.
Surprisingly, I didn’t experience any runs when spraying. Brushing tends to create heavy spots easier than spraying, which causes the runs.
I would be perfectly happy brushing Advance on doors, trim, or windows in my own home.
TIP: When brushing enamels such as Advance, make sure to use as high-quality brush as possible. A fine bristle brush will lay the paint on smooth and allow it to flow better into an even finish.
Benjamin Moore Advance Dry Times
While the technical specs of Advance say that it dries to the touch in 4 hours and can be recoated in 16 hours, I found that in reality, it dries much faster.
Assuming the humidity in the area you are painting is relatively low, Advance can be dry to the touch within an hour, similar to any water-based paint.
Sanding and re-coating typically takes a bit longer. I’ve found that I can sand and re-coat Advance usually after 3-4 hours.
Cure Times
Curing is different from drying. A cured paint refers to when it has reached it maximum hardness. Most paints typically take anywhere from 7-30 days to be fully cured.
In the real world, a fully cured paint means you won’t be able to easily scratch it. It has reached its maximum durability.
Advance says it can take up to 30 days to reach maximum hardness (full cure), I have found this to be true as well.
Advance Primer and Top Coat Sanding
The ability to effectively sand a primer and topcoat is important, especially when you’re trying to achieve perfectly smooth cabinet doors.
I have found that Advance primer sands and powders decently. Not as good as some oil-based sanding primers, but good enough to achieve a smooth primed surface.
Advance topcoat doesn’t sand as well as the primer, and it shouldn’t, but light sandings between coats worked really well and allowed for a perfectly smooth finish before spraying and brushing the final topcoat.
Touch Up
The ability to touch up an enamel is important. No matter how good of a job you do, you will eventually need to touch up your painted cabinets.
Some enamels touch up terribly. If you try to fix small areas, they stand out like a sore thumb.
I have found that advance touches up quite nicely. Small touch-ups typically blend in within 24 hours and are not noticeable in less prominent areas.
Long Term Durability
The fact that Benjamin Moore’s Advance goes on smooth and has low VOC content is great and all, but what about its long term durability? Will it last in your home with kids, pets, and every day use?
I can only half answer this question.
I do not have my kitchen cabinets enameled with Advance. However, I have probably used Advance on over 20 of my client’s kitchens in the past 5+ years.
Of those roughly 20 kitchens I have painted with Advance, I have received zero callbacks.
If Advance didn’t hold up well and chipped, scratched or marred easily, I would expect a high number of callbacks, especially to homes with kids and pets.
Benjamin Moore Advance Price & Where To Purchase
You can. typically purchase Benjamin Moore Advance for about $55. If your local store is selling it for more, then they are high. Many paint stores run lots of different sales, so you may even find it cheaper.
You can buy Advance at any paint store that is a dealer of Benjamin Moore products.
You can read product data sheets and more here.
Where You Should Use Benjamin Moore Advance
I recommend using Advance in any home where people are currently occupying the home during the work.
If you plan on painting your cabinets while living in your home and don’t want to deal with odors and dangerous VOC levels, then Advance is perfect.
It is also great for painting contractors who must work in occupied homes as well.
Advance is great for any areas where you need a hard durable finish such as kitchen cabinets, windows, doors, trim, built-ins, and furniture.
Tips on Using Advance
- If spraying, thing Advance using clean water by 10-20%.
- If brushing, use a high-quality fine bristled brush.
- Allow Advance to cure a minimum of 7 days before high usage.
- If rolling, use a velure cover for a smooth even finish.
- If brushing, pay attention and look for runs.
Final Thoughts
If you look around online, you can always find people who dislike any product. The same is true for Advance.
But, when used correctly, Advance is a great product that fills the gap between oil-based enamels and water-based enamels perfectly.
You will have durability and adhesion issues with any paint if you do not properly clean, prep and prime the area, so make sure to take your time and don’t skip the prep work.
You can read more about prep work for painting here.
At the end of the day, Advance has become my go-to enamel when painting kitchen cabinets, doors, windows, and furniture.
Its ease of use, great finished look, low VOC and easy cleanup make it a product that I happy to use and will continue to use for a long time.
Benjamin Moore Advance FAQ
Advance can easily be sprayed using an airless or HVLP sprayer. When using an HVLP, you may need to thin the paint by 10-20%. Airless sprayers will not require thinning.
You can use a brush and/or roller when applying Benjamin Moore Advance. Make sure to pay attention for runs as they happen frequently when brushing.
In a low humidity environment, Advance can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours to dry to the touch. Expect 4-6 hours of dry time before you can sand and recoat.
Yes. Advance is a durable enamel paint perfect for kitchen cabinets, doors, windows, trim, and furniture.
Where To Purchase Benjamin Moore Advance:
You can purchase Advance online from the Ace Hardware website here!
Ready To Learn More?
Check out our Painting Kitchen Cabinets hub page for everything you could want to know about cabinet painting including costs, how-tos, reviews, and more.
I was interested in applying a glaze to my cabinets after I paint them. Can you do that with Benjamin Moore Advance? If so, would you wait the 30 days for the full cure, or could you do it sooner?
Hi Gayle,
You can absolutely apply a glaze over Advance. There are different types of glazes, some of which will require you to let the paint cure longer before applying. But any latex glaze should be fine to use after 24-48 hours.
We are painting our cabinets with Advance paint. My question is about the doors… if we spray the doors horizontally, and we flip them over to paint the other side, will it leave intentions on the painted side that is face down?
Hi Staci,
That is a concern. To get around this I do two things. First, I use Painter’s Tripods. These are little triangle tripods that keep your door off the table and only leave tiny spots, if any.
Second, I always to the backs of the doors first. Thies means that the front side will never have to sit on the table after it has been sprayed. So if 4 little dots are left on your cabinets, they will only be left on the back side.
Hope this helps!
Hi I wondered if advanced gloss white is likely to go yellow over time when used in kitchen? Thanks
Hi Steve,
I’ve been using Advance for quite a while now and have not experienced any yellowing. Benjamin Moore claims that Advance won’t yellow over time like traditional oils. Hope that helps.
How soon can I reinstall the cabinet doors; should I wait a week or 2, or can they be rehung sooner? Thanks.
Hi Edna,
The longer you wait, the more durable your doors will be when you put them back up. So, if you can wait a week or two, great. However, I often times put doors back on the day after I finished spraying them. Because they are so fresh I wear gloves to keep them clean, I am extremely careful, and I put clear bumpers on the backs of the doors so that they do not stick together.
You mention using a high quality brush. Is there one you would recommend? Or any to avoid in particular? Thanks!
Katie
Hi Katie,
For most all painting, I like to use Purdy or Wooster stiff bristle paintbrushes. I particularly like Purdy’s Pro Extra Glide 3″ wide brush. It is nice to have a 1″ brush for cabinets as well.
How many hours until you can flip the cabinets and paint the other side?
I just finished spraying my cabinet doors with advanced. At the end I was pressed for time so I hand screwed in some 3.5″ drywall screws in the back side of the doors. (1 in each hinge hole and 1 in the hardware hole. This allowed me to spray the backs on tripods and let gravity work for about 20-30 minutes. Then insert the screws place the doors on the screws so I could spray the fronts. Then set the doors down on the screws fronts up for drying. I sprayed simply white and hail navy. The darker navy color stayed tacky longer than the white.
Hi Colleen,
I just finished a job this week Using Advance. I was able to flip my doors after about 2 hours and had no issue with them sticking or anything. One day was a bit humid though and needed closer to 4 hours.
I am finishing my trim with this paint and am using practice boards to get a technique down to avoid brush marks. I have a nice quality synthetic stiff purdy brush, but am wondering about paint conditioners. Are they necessary? I did a trial piece using a water-based conditioner but when it dried it had brush marks. I’m thinking I should try the oil-based penetrol instead, if it’s even necessary?
Thanks!
Amanda
@Margaret, Rollers can work really well too. They will leave a little bit of stipple, but can achieve a great finish. Ultimately, you have to decide if you would rather have brush marks, stiple, or spend on a sprayer. All, if done right, can look great.
@Ryanc, how about using a roller instead of a brush for kitchen cabinets. Using a brush only for grooves?
Hi Amanda,
I personally don’t use paint conditioners. I typically thin with a bit of water (10% for brushing, 20% for spraying). If I am brushing something, I have to be ok with some brush marks no matter what. If you really don’t want brush marks, consider getting a paint sprayer (HVLP).
We painted stair risers with it and got a few smudges where the tape didn’t seal well. What do you clean “accidents” off finished hardwood with?
Hey Mike,
Typically, if you find these accidents right away, the paint hasn’t hardened yet and you can scrape them off with a fingernail or a small scraping tool. The longer they sit tough, the harder they will be to remove.
This is great info, thank you, do you use a top coat over the advance, and if so what do you use?
Is spraying easy to master for kitchen cabinets, I have only used the sprayer on exterior surfaces. Wondering if you would recommend that for a DIYer on cabinets.
Hey Scott,
Advance does not require a top coat and I do not put any clear top coats over my enamels.
Spraying isn’t difficult but can be a bit tricky. The way I recommend in my How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets post is to spray them flat on a table (workbench) one side at a time. It’s easier than hanging them and spraying them while they are verticle since spraying horizontally won’t give you any runs and you can put it on thick.
Do you need to use a primer first before using Advance paint? Do you lightly sand between coats?
@Ryanc, no problem using a water based primer like that as opposed to an oil based for The typical builders grade stained cabinets? (They are going to be black)
Hi Amy,
Yes, I do use a primer. I recently switched to Zinsser Smart Prime as I’ve found the bond of this primer is exceptional.
What do you think about Stix Primer? Do you spay your primer? Thanks.
@Ryanc,
Thanks for all the amazing info & insight!! I’m excited to see your review of the Smart Prime, have you done that yet? Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience!
Hi Lisa,
Your comment slipped through the cracks the last couple of weeks while I was busy working! Yes I did get my review of Smart Prime up a while ago: https://diypaintingtips.com/zinsser-smart-prime-review/
Let me know what you think!
Hey George,
I have actually never used Stix Primer (update: I just completed a review of Stix here), however it is a bonding primer, so I would assume it would work just fine. I just started using Zinsser Smart Prime this year. I’ve found that it has a great bond, sands well, and is great at blocking stains such as wood tannins that come out of oak when you paint it. I’m actually planning a review on Smart Prime soon.
What size type do you recommend for the HVLP gun?
Hey Chris,
I use a Titan Capspray Maxum 2 with a #3 standard tip. I’ve found that the #3 pretty much covers me for everything I do and honestly, I would imagine that it would be perfect for almost all DIY projects. Different brands, such as Wagner and Graco, have different tip sizes so I can’t really talk about them, but for spraying Advance, a standard tip size will be perfect.
I can’t decide if I should use the BM or the SW to paint my kitchen cabinets. Help! Please and thank you!
Hi Krista,
Both BM and SW have good products. I think SW’s enamels are nice and most people will be happy with them, BM just makes a better looking enamel. Advance looks great and if you are thinking about doing your kitchen cabinets, it would be my top choice. If you’re looking for some more kitchen cabinet painting tips, check out these posts: How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets Like a Pro, The Best Grain Filler For Oak Cabinets, and here is a review on the primer I use Smart Prime.
Hi. I painted my cabinets with advance but can I paint my drywall backsplash to make it washable til I can get it tiled
Hi Cindy, I don’t see why not. Advance can be used on walls, cabinets, furniture, etc. It should hold up really well on your backsplash in my opinion.
Can I use advance paint on laminate cabinets?
Absolutely. It’s all about the prep. Make sure to scuff the laminate and use a good primer like Zinsser Smart Prime.
We ave latex paint on our cabinets now. Can we go right over it with the BM Advance?
As long as the previous paint is in good shape and you sand it first, you shouldn’t have any problems going over it.
What finish would you recommend for kitchen cabinets? Satin, semi or glossy?
And when you refer to topcoat in the post above, do you just mean the final coat?
Do you spray on primer and do you sand between each coat?
How many coats do you typically use with the advance paint?
Hey Maria,
I recommend satin for almost all kitchen cabinets.
By topcoat I do mean the final coat of BM Advance. I do not topcoat them with a clear coat.
I spray on every coat and sand in between coats. I recommend spraying to anyone who is willing/can spend a little bit more money on their tools.
I typically do 1 coat primer and two top coats, but a third top coat is sometimes needed in different situations.
I’ve painted a piece of furniture with advance looks great. However this is a buffet piece that is gonna act as additional countertop space in our small kitchen. I was thinking about putting a few coats of polycrylic on the top and inside the cabinets bottoms for extra durability. However you mention its not required. Would you add the top coats?
Hi Khristel,
Top coating Advance with clear coats to add extra durability is not required and actually makes touch up more difficult in my opinion. Advance is designed to be a hard and durable top coat. The practice of top coating latex enamels with a clear coat comes from when latex enamels didn’t have the durability or the look of oil based enamels. The only time I clear coat over my enamels is when I have added a glaze or done a distress. If you do clear coat the piece and it chips, your touch up will not blend nearly as well as if you hadn’t clear coated the piece. Hope this helps!
Your review is spot on. I ordered unfinished RTA cabinets a year ago and finished them myself with Advance primer and Satin paint. I did two coats of each using the dry rolling method. Everything you say was my experience as well. A year on the cabinets look smooth and glossy, with no yellowing despite getting southern exposure. I live this product
Great to hear!
Hi,
If a few years back I used a rustoleum kit to do my cabinets dark brown, ( I know what a bad idea) do I need to get that off first or can I sand and prime? You also said you sand between coats of paint? Thanks!
Hi Tasha,
Assuming the Rustoleum finish is in good shape, I would thoroughly sand everything down, prime and paint. I only resort to stripping if there is a major issue and no other solution since stripping a finish is very time consuming. And yes, I do sand between every coat. Medium grit before primer, then fine after primer, extra fine between top coats.
Planning to paint my laundry cabinet (Textured Lacquer).
any recommendations for primer and the paint? and I will use roll & brush since I don’t have any spray.
which the best brush & roll to use?
Hi Chandra,
I do have a few recommendations:
Primer: Zinsser Smart Prime (review)
Paint: BM Advance 🙂
Sprayer if you are interested: Wagner Flexio 2000 (review)
Hi,
What primer would you recommend under advance from Benjamin Moore? Something that will give great adhesion and how many coats do you recommend? I’ll be building some new cabinets for my kitchen and want a super smooth finish. I’ll be making the cabinets out of paint grade ply and poplar face frames and doors. I’m a flooring and stair contractor and use advance with INSL Aqua lock and STIX primers but these seem way to thick to use. I’ve got an airless paint sprayer I’ll be trying out so something that is sprayable. Thanks!
@Ryanc, are you located in the US?
I’m in Canada and I cannot find the smart prime anywhere.
@Ryanc, what would be the next best primer in your opinion if I can’t get the smart primer, to go under advance.
Yes I am in the US. Don’t know how to help you up there, but here is Smart Prime on Amazon.
Hi Luigi,
My go to primer for occupied residentail homes right now is Zinsser Smart Prime. I wrote up a whole review on Zinsser Smart Prime that you can check out. I thin it about 20% and spray with an HVLP. My guess is roughly 10% thinning for an airless would be perfect along with a 411 tip. Good luck.
Best article on using BM Advance paint I’ve seen yet. I’ve previously painted a kitchen with oak doors so never expected a perfect finish and the homeowner was very pleased. Getting ready to paint a cherry kitchen so I’m more concerned with the outcome (even if the owner wants the corners distressed). I have a Graco airless sprayer that I’ll do the doors with and roll/brush the cabinet sides and faces. I thought of getting an HVLP sprayer but don’t want to experiment right now with a new technique. Anyway, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences with the rest of us!
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the compliment!
Thanks so much for this article – it helped me pull the trigger on going with BM Advance in Satin. I chose the color Onyx, and I know dark colors tend to take longer to dry/cure than lighter ones. My cabinets have been completed for about two weeks now, and I’ve noticed that if I get any water on them and try to dry it, the sheen wipes right off and looks matte. I tried to touch it up and the touch up looks horrible – completely different sheens. Luckily, it was only one door so I’m going to redo that door, but any ideas why this is happening? I’m assuming it’s because it’s not fully cured, but I’m not sure. I had an oil based stain on the cabinets before but I sanded thoroughly, applied two coats of Zinssers Bullseye primer, and three coats of paint with the recommended drying time between. Thanks for your help!
Hey Nikki,
It sounds to me like you did everything right. That should not be happening after two weeks of dry time. My first guess would be a pigment issue with the paint color. I would take a door off of your cabinets and bring it into the paint store and show them exactly what is going on. Tell them you sanded the door, used multiple coats of primer and then show them the issue. I’ve gotten paint with bad colorant and it can cause all kinds of weird issues. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
I would like to lessen the grain of my oak cabinets but without all the work of grain filling. Is there a primer you would recommend before using Advance that would help cover the grain?
Hi Cathy,
Without grain filler, it is hard to get rid of graining on oak cabinets. Most primers, once dry, are only about 1 mil thick, so they aren’t great at filling in primer, especially if you spray them. However, if you brush in your primer, it will fill in your grain a little. So what you could do is brush on one coat of primer, sand, and brush on a second coat of primer. I think it may take 2-3 coats of primer to make a difference and in the end, using a grain filler like I show how in this post: The Best Wood Grain Filler For Oak Cabinets, would be the best route. Good luck either way!
Do you caulk your door panels when are painting cabinets? Just curious how to get the most coverage so the seams don’t show during expansion / contraction of the wood. I’m painting oak cabinets.
Also how much sanding do you recommend? My cabinets are pre finished. I would assume just enough to allow for adhesion but I don’t need to go to then wood do I? Thanks for your help in advance.
Hi Jon,
I typically don’t caulk panels for clients, but if it were my own cabinets, then yes I would caulk them (since I can fix it myself if they do eventually crack from expansion/contraction).
For sanding you do not need to go to the wood. You just need to rough up the surface, basically de-gloss it, to allow better adhesion of the primer. Hope this helps!
we want to use an airless sprayer but it seems the HVLP is referenced as a preference. Do you have any experience using an airless sprayer with Advance
Hi Allison,
I painted cabinets with an airless sprayer for years before switching to an HVLP. At first glance, HVLP sprayers are a little harder to learn, but they are actually much easier to use, more forgiving, and produce a better finish. Airless sprayers don’t give as nice of a finish, are more prone to runs, and waste far more paint (they have 300-500% more overspray than HVLP sprayers. You’ve given me an idea for a new post, something along the lines of “How To Use An HVLP Sprayer To Paint Cabinets”. I think I’ll put that in my todo list!
I painted our previous kitchen with Advance paint and it turned out great. We have since moved and I am painting our new kitchen. I bought the paint several months ago and wasn’t able to use it until now. I had it re-shaken at the BM store, but it seems thinner than I remember and isn’t covering like I remember. I aksed the clerk that helped me with the paint and he said it is perfect. So, is the paint thick or thin? Thin like tomato soup. I’m trying to decide if my memory is bad and to just keep painting. Or if it is supposed to be thicker and I should just get a new can. Thanks for your help! This is a great post!
Hi Amy,
That’s a really hard question, but here are my thoughts. Occasionally batches of paint can be bad. It may go bad while in storage or on a vary rare occasion, the manufacturer can make a bad batch. I’m guessing that you’ll spend at least 40 hours painting your cabinets. My guess is the paint is fine, but at the same time, buying a new gallon of paint is probably worth the peace of mind! Good Luck!
Hi Ryan. You indicate that you used Advance primer and enamel;
“I recently enameled all of the woodwork on the main level in a house using only Advance. I used both their primer and satin topcoat. This included kitchen cabinets, windows, doors, trim, and built-ins. , but, the link goes to a Zinsser primer, so…
I screw up sometimes! Thanks for pointing that out!
Sorry, I meant to say CAN’T lay it flat.
So I’ve got a big piece of laminate that stands vertically that needs to be painted. It’s the same laminate as the cabinets, but it’s built in. So I can’t spray it, and I CAN’T lay it flat.
It’s about two feet by eight feet tall. I’m a little worriesd about having to brush this paint on, and having it not dry flat. Any advice for doing something vertical like this properly?
Hey Dale,
Spraying verticle pieces isn’t overly complicated. You just need a little practice and remember that it is better to err on the side of being too light rather than too heavy. Set up some cardboard in your garage and practice spraying a bit before doing your large verticle board. Brushing or rolling can work as well (a mini 4″ velour roller would be a great choice) , but I recommend really good sanding in between coats to avoid overly pronounced brush marks. Good Luck!
we sprayed BM Advance on a buffet to use as a bathroom vanity. I was told it did not need a topcoat, but now every water drop leaves a spot that stays for days. Obviously I DO need to topcoat my vanity to make it more water and spot proof. What should I use? I will have to brush it because a vessel sink and faucet are already installed
Hi Carol,
I’ve done Advance on a lot of bathroom cabinets and haven’t experienced this problem. My guess is that it is a colorant issue. I would take some pictures of the vanity, then some pictures after some water has been splashed on.
A good solution might be to topcoat the vanity with a clear coat. Minwax Satin Water Based Polycrylic would work great and should solve your issues, not to mention that brush strokes won’t show in the clear coat. Good Luck!
I am almost completed with painting my parents kitchen cabinets with BM Advanced in a satin finish, with one color for the cabinets, and another for the cabinet doors, drawer fronts and crown. All is going extremely well, although I need to go back and mask the crown with painters tape before painting the trim moulding, located between the cabinets and crown. This trim moulding had painters tape applied while painting the color for the crown, and the other color for the cabinets. Note that the “crown” is a flat 8” board with a crown detail moulding at the ceiling, and is the only area I didn’t sand prior to priming, or between coats, although did wait approximately 4 hours before applying 1st coat of Advanced following the primer, and about 20 hours before applying the 2nd coat. One coat of BM Fresh Start primer was used throughout.
Question is, how long should I wait before using painters tape on the “crown” so I can paint the trim moulding just below it with the other color? Nervous about lifting off any of the finished work!
@Ryanc, thank you! Waited almost 48hrs before applying 3M painters tape. Applied (2) coats of the Advanced to the trim moulding, within the same day (about 4 hours in between), then removed the tape, so it wouldn’t be adhered too long. Had to do some touch-ups after removing, but not because any paint stuck to it! Thanks again, especially for your quick response!
Best,
Mike
Glad to hear it went well!
Hi Mike,
I think waiting 24 hours should be plenty, but you have to make sure to use a tape specially made for this situation. I love Frog Tape. Normal Frog Tape may work just fine, but they also have another version called Frog Tape Delicate Surface, which might be even better for your situation. Regular “Painter’s Tape” doesn’t always give the best results. Also, make sure to test out a small area. Make sure the tape adheres well and releases well before taping everything. Good Luck.
I rolled my cupboard frames and doors with STIX primer and it went good. Now I am getting ready to paint with the BM Advance. What is better to use a velour roller or a 3″ Purdy brush to give a better finish to my kitchen cupboard doors?
Hi Angie,
Both options will give a slightly different look/texture. A velour roller will give a really fine stipple (like you see on a wall, only less noticeable). A brush, if done right, also looks great. Just make sure to apply with long even strokes. I recommend painting the doors while removed and on a flat surface. This way you can put the paint on a little thicker and it will self level more (reducing stipple and brush strokes).
I appreciate your article and all the wonderful tips you included! I just finished our bathroom vanity with BM advance using a roller and brushes. I wish it was a little smoother – after the final top coat, do you recommend sanding for a smoother finish since I didn’t use a sprayer? If so, what technique do you recommend and what grit? Thanks in advance!
Hi Kristina,
I recommend laying the doors on a flat surface, sanding out as much of the previous texture as you can without going through the finish. Then when applying with a brush or roller, put it on just a little bit thicker. You can put it on thicker without runs when it is laying flat and the finish will self level a bit as it dries. Try thinning by 5-10% as well to get it to level even better.
What should I clean my cabinets with that are spray painted with Advance waterborne Satin paint by Benjamin Moore?
I wrote a whole post on this that you can check out here: How To Clean Painted Cabinets.
We are painting our cabinets and using green frog tape. After 1 coat of primer and 3 coats of BM Advance paint, the tape was “chipping” the new paint of the edges. Any advice? Do you use frog tape for edging?
Hi Dres, Sorry to hear that you’re having problems. Frog Tape is literally the best tape I have found. My guess is that the real issue is a prep issue. This is VERY common on the edges of cabinets where you would likely run tape when painting the adjacent wall. Many times people will sand and clean the cabinet, but they either don’t get all the way to the edge (where the cabinet meets the wall) or they don’t get that area very well. This creates bonding issues right at the edge of the cabinet where it meets the wall. There is good news though, other than the issue of taping causing chipping, that area will likely never take any other abuse and shouldn’t cause future issues. My advice is to get an artist brush and touch up the edges when you’re done painting OR don’t tape the edges and try to paint next to them freehand. Good Luck!
I used Impervo to paint my cabinets but was less than impressed with the results. Can I use Advance to paint over Impervo?
Hi Nancy,
You can absolutely paint over Impervo with Advance. In my experience, oil-based Impervo looks amazing but their water-based finish leaves a bit to be desired. Advance looks very much like Impervo Oil only without the incredibly high VOC content. Good luck.
This was so informative! We recently had our cabinets done by a painter who sprayed them but rushed the job and there are places I can see a handprint and some spots where the color looks uneven. What are your thoughts on how I could correct this? Could I spot fix these with a roller or fine brush?
Thanks
Hi Sam,
Sorry that your project didn’t turn out perfect. Saying how to fix something without seeing it can be difficult. My best guess would be this: Areas where there are issues need to be re-sprayed. If there is a hand mark or unevenness on a door, that door needs to be re-sprayed. If it’s a side panel, that panel needs to be re-sprayed. I would have the painter come back and fix this, you deserve a job done right and should not have to fix anything after you have paid a professional. If you must fix it yourself and cannot spray, thin the paint out by roughly 20% and try brushing on a light coat. By thinning, the paint won’t cover quite as well, but it should blend in really nice. Good Luck!
I sanded a pre-painted cabinet of drawers with P150 sandpaper before priming. It shows it as being Medium grade. But I was reading that it may be finer than that. So, I’m confused about grades and grits. You mentioned using Medium, Fine, and Extra Fine sandpaper. Can you add more info about what that is in terms of numbers?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and enthusiasm.
Hi Russ,
I may not be 100% correct on this, but I believe that 3M medium grit sponges are 80 grit, fine are 120, and extra-fine are 150. Anyone can correct me if I am wrong. I do know that medium work great for sanding before primer, fine are great for sanding primer, and extra-fine are great for sanding in between top coats.
Do you recommend the advance primer? I use a sherwin williams primer on my last painting project for base board and doors and it took three coats to make it really look nice. I was painting over varnished. Thanks Richard
I have used Advance primer and I don’t love it. It’s a fine primer but I prefer Smart Prime or Stix over it.
I thought I saw you mention that you had a YouTube channel but I can’t find it. Could you please provide a link? Thanks.
Purchased B.M. Advanced paint for a bookcase project and I want to spray paint the cases using a Graco Ultra cordless sprayer. I’m thinking a Graco spray tip of 313 or 413 without thinning would be correct, but looking for guidance if thinning is needed and a larger orifice like 314 or 414. The Graco sprayer comes with a 514 tip. Thanks in advance for your guidance. PS: I have micro-rolled kitchen cabinets with Advance and it is really nice.
Hi Joe,
When spraying things like bookcases or cabinets, a smaller orifice tip is the better way to go. This will cause less paint to come out of the tip and make spraying easier. Bigger tips, when you don’t have experience, usually result in lots of runs.
A 313 is pretty good, still, be cautious for runs though. I actually prefer a 311 or 411 for spraying cabinets and bookcases with airless sprayers.
You shouldn’t need to thin. Airless sprayers don’t need thinning like HVLP sprayers do.
Really appreciate this thorough run-through on cabinets and the Q&A. A friend who used BM advance (and thinks it did a great job) forwarded the link. Two questions I have not seen answered, if you are still checking this site.
My cabinets were covered with polyurethane which I sanded down to wood pretty thoroughly. A lot of other websites recommend cleaning the cabinet faces with TSP to get any oil or grease off them. If I sanded is this necessary? Then I assume after, wipe with a little water to get the TSP off?
Also you recommend Satin, but almost all the other sites on cabinets I looked at say you need semi-gloss, or gloss for a more “modern” look. I have an old farmhouse 1830s with new soapstone counters (black) and the cabinets will be white. Curious your thoughts?
Again, great info here, also on the primer.
@Ryanc,
I’m getting my kitchen cabinets painted white soon with the BM satin (professional’s). I have marble countertops (white w/gray swirls) , eggshell wall & gray floors. Want contemporary look. Any recommendations on color/name of white to use? The samples are to small to really tell. (I realize you do not have pictures). Southern exposure – do lots of light in kitchen. Suggestions – or how do I choose other than looking at those tiny square samples in store? Also, should toe kicks be painted with the BM or stay with the baseboard paint for them? Thanks!
Hi Jelly,
BM’s White Dove is actually the most popular white that I use on Kitchen cabinets. I probably use it on 40-50% of the cabinet jobs I do. It’s just a perfect white for kitchen. Not too bright or sterile (if you know what I mean), but not too creamy or anything. Color is hard since it is so subjective.
I always paint the toe kicks.
Good Luck!
Glad you found this useful Andrew. Yes, I still do check, but usually only on the weekends, so you caught me at a good time today.
TSP – You absolutely do not need it. Usually, the only greasy spots in kitchens are over the stove and under the sink. If those areas are a little grimy in your kitchen, wash them with dish soap, then sand everything. If they weren’t overly greasy, not washing necessary, just sand.
Here’s the thing with content on the internet. 98% of the people writing have never done the thing that they are writing about. TSP, Semi-Gloss and Gloss recommendations were done by someone with little to no experience and then copied by countless writers online. That’s just the way it is.
Actually, trisodium phosphate residue left on cabinets is a major cause of failure on finishes. You are more likely to cause issues than help by cleaning with TSP. NOTE: Dish soap can cause problems too, so only use if necessary then wash and sand thoroughly.
I can assure you that Satin is the way to go. You will regret semi-gloss and really regret gloss. At best it will look like a 1960’s-80s painted kitchen. It will show every imperfection and brush stroke and it will be ugly. I use satin on every single cabinet job and so does every legit painter I know.
As a homeowner I care about how the paint looks.
I don’t care if it’s easier to use. I am not painting myself.
I care what looks better!
Do you add a polyurethane on top of the Benjamin Moore paint for cabinets or is it durable enough?
Hi Erin,
Advance is meant to be a durable top coat. I do not add a polyurethane top coat over it.
Thanks for the info. All my doors and trim are painted with Alkyd enamel. Can I paint over them with a hybrid
acrylic-alkyd enamel?
Hi Gail,
Yes, you can paint over your alkyd enamel with hybrid. As long as the alkyd is cured, there are no issues.
Hi Ryan,
So I just sprayed my cabinets with advanced. I did the front then the back but what I did as a beginner was put the doors on cups and since the paint wasn’t dry it left circle marks :(. Then I tried sanding them out and I used to rough of a sanding sponge and now I see sanding marks. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the marks out? Should I sand with a higher grit until I don’t see them?
Thanks in advance!
Sadly, yes, sanding is really the only way to get those out. I’d start with 150 and work my way up to 220. Good luck.
Hello! After doing lots of research on cabinet paint, I had decided to go with BM Advance on my new kitchen cabinets – but when I went to buy, found out this line is part of the paint shortage and there is no date when they expect to start receiving it again!! Have you run into this? What product are you using when you can’t get Advance? Thank you for all the helpful info!!
@Ryanc, thank you!!
I really like Cabinet Coat by Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams Emerald is nice too.
Have you ever used a flatter finish on kitchen cabinets? I used the Benjamin Moore advance on a clients kitchen cabinets in the satin finish. They were happy with them but personally the satin finish was a little shiny for my taste. I am kinda new at this so looking for any advice about other finishes.
Hi Cathy,
I personally wouldn’t want to go with a flatter finish, but everyone has different tastes. I would go to a re-use store or Menards and paint up a couple of sample doors, especially if you do client work. Then you can show them the difference and let them decide.
Great tips! So we will be painting all of our golden oak railings (stairs, loft, etc) a nice white color and replacing the oak spindles with iron balusters. BM Advance sounds like a perfect solution for railings. We will use a semi-gloss vs satin as it will wear better on railings. Per your recommendation we will use Zinsser as a primer. 2 questions. I am considering using a “liquid sandpaper” to clean and remove the gloss as real sanding which would be quite the mess. I am also considering using a foam vs bristle brush as it may create a more smooth finish. Any comments on the liquid sandpaper and foam brush ideas?
Hi Bruce,
I don’t use liquid sandpaper solution, so I can’t really comment on if they do or do not work. But I understand why you may want to give it a shot. Foam brushes are good. They still leave brush strokes and are a bit slower, but they get the job done pretty good with pretty minimal brush strokes.
Do you think the advance semi gloss is shiner than other semi glosses? Have you ever mixed the satin and semi gloss together to get a lower sheen? Thank you for your help!
Hi Karen,
I would imagine it’s on par with other semi-gloss finishes. No, I haven’t ever mixed sheens, never even thought of it.
I am wanting to paint my knotty alder kitchen cabinets. I am wondering what wood filler you would recommend for the knots as some are pretty large? Someone had recommended that I use bondo glazing & spot putty, but I’m wondering if it isn’t hard/durable enough as the holes I’ve filled in already i can easily pick/dent it with my fingernail. Any help would be so appreciated!
Bondo is pretty hard, it’s so hard that I think it’s a paint in the butt to sand. Honestly, it’s probably the best thing you could fill knotty alder with.
I just finished my kitchen cabinets using INSL-X Stix and BM Advance Satin and they came out great! I sprayed them with a Homeright Super Finish Max sprayer (first time using it). I thinned the Stix and the Advance 15%. I sprayed them horizontally and used some makeshift racks for drying. I’m super happy with the results. Thank you Ryan for your great advice.